General information
Machine embroidery is a special type of embroidery, performed by
special automatic machines, functioning according to the man’s
adjusted program. This man is designer, constructor. He creates the
embroidery program (design) – the machine operation algorithm,
which can be in consequence repeated unlimited number of times. The
machine following the given program, automatically executes the
embroidery on material. In this way, the main features of machine
embroidery are the absence of manual labor at the stage of outright
embroidery, and the possibility of embroidery samples duplication.
The machine embroidery is a recent kind of activity, in contrast to
manual embroidery, existing for thousands of years. The machine
embroidery began its existence nearly 50 years ago and in 1980-ies
the demand of the profession of machine embroidery designer began
to grow. Nowadays the demand is actually as well. During the period
of machine embroidery existence, its creation technology has
changed beyond recognition. The machines that once used as source
of information the punched card, limited in speed and quality of
embroidery, were replaced by microprocessor-based, highly
productive, multihead machines with advanced technology equipment,
optimizing the embroidery process.
The process of machine embroidery technologically consists of
two closely associated stages:
1. The embroidery designing stage, or the construction stage of
machine embroidery-represents the process of creation of embroidery
machine program. At this stage are developed the construction
components of machine embroidery. 2. The technical stage represents
the direct embroidery manufacture by means of machine. At this
stage are developed the technical components of machine
embroidery.
Both this stages are at the same time quite independent from the
point of view of manufacture, which helps to differentiate them and
to mark out two different basic types of industrial activity
accordingly. It is a question of enterprises that are specialized
directly in program creation, or in materially embroidery creation.
Each of these manufacture branches develops round itself a
branching infrastructure system. For example, nowadays there are a
great number of producers of special program maintenance for
machine embroidery, of embroidery machines and special concomitant
equipment producers, of outlay materials producers, used for
embroidery manufacture. Many companies, in accordance with machine
embroidery branch needs are adjusting the directions of its
activity. For example, the producers of textile dye stuff make
special adjustments of qualities and spectrum, the clothing
producers change the construction, adjusting it to the technology
of machine embroidery manufacture.
Field of machine embroidery use
Historically the embroidery had, first of all, a decorative
character. Nowadays this essential property favorable affected its
use in advertising branch. We frequently see the embroidery bearing
advertising-informational character, on clothing objects and other
ready-made garments.
Machine embroidery as advertising –informational bearer
Embroidery can be an effective advertising-informational means,
at the same time without loosing its artistic expressiveness. It is
frequently used at trade marks plotting on the cloth, leather,
felt, as well as on complete products, clothes etc. At embroidery
it is possible the reproduction of trade mark of all color
combination. The trade mark, plotted on by this method, frequently
turns into fashionable attribute of article and becomes an organic
element of its composition. It is possible to embroider on
different types of clothes, including uniform, working clothes. The
embroidery as characteristic index to any current of activity is
widely used in many countries. Very often the firm workers bear the
differential sign of their company. It can be a logotype on the
head gear, on the front side of the sweater or on the back side of
the jacket. The cloth embroidery, on many indexes passes ahead of
its “rivals”, like serigraphy or decal decoration (transfer seal).
The embroidery is more lasting, the steadiness of threads color is
higher, the volumetric texture of embroidery confers more expensive
and spectacular shape to the logotype. That is why most of the
firms, dealing with advertising campaigns development, recommend to
their clients the very embroidery. The embroidery can be performed
on different parts of clothes and on different articles. On head
gears (caps, knitted caps), sport shirts, shirts, tolstovkas, even
on footwear.
Technical constituent of machine embroidery
During the cycle of machine embroidery manufacturing is applied
different means and tools. However, starting from the availability
of two basic stages of manufacture, it can be market two
fundamental corresponding tools of machine embroidery. They
are:
1. The computer with appropriate program maintenance and
peripherals on the construction stage of manufacture. 2. Automatic
embroidery machine with concomitant supplementary equipment on the
technological stage of manufacture.
Let us list the fundamental information of industrial automatic
embroidery machines and some supplementary special concomitant
equipment. Industrial automatic embroidery machines according to
fulfilled activity and principle of operation can be divided in two
groups: 1. Universal automatic embroidery machines. 2. Special
automatic embroidery machines.
To special automatic embroidery machines can be attributed the
machines using not quite standard embroidery methods, machines that
are able to perform embroidery on out-of-the-way places of complete
products and on materials that are difficult for embroidery. To one
of the most commonly used type of special automatic embroidery
machines can be attributed the so called Schiffli, machines that
allow making embroidery with the utilization of decorative cord, to
cut through material and at the same time to process the cut by
embroidery. These machines are mostly used for finishing of light
and thin, translucent, fashioned and other smart cloth and articles
made out of it. For instance, Schiffli machines are often used at
wedding dresses decoration. Quite recently it appeared a new
interesting kind of automatic special embroidery-the so called
no-thread-embroidery and automatic no-thread embroidery machines.
The principle of operation of such machines has a remote conformity
with principle of producing of needle-punched fabrics. It consists
in the fact that the machine with a set of needles (24 needles)
runs through the structure of the main (working) material the locks
of fibers of special auxiliary material. The auxiliary material is
laid under the main material. After the auxiliary material removing
on the main material remains an effective, specific pattern
(picture). Nowadays the leader in production of no-thread
embroidery machines is the Japan Company Tanaka. In 2001 fashion
show in Berlin and Paris were presented impressive collections made
with the help of no-thread –embroidery on “Vari-O-Matic” machine of
this company. To universal automatic embroidery machines are
related the machines of lock-stitch with coordinate displaced frame
holder which is meant for manufacture of embroidery with threads on
classical and most widespread materials and articles. The use of
such machines supposes some limitations in properties of used
materials and constructions of complete products. But these
limitations are constantly growing narrower due to constant
modernization and improvement of universal automatic embroidery
machines and due to use of manifold auxiliary facilities and
special devices. All known universal automatic embroidery machines
are of lock-stitch type of machines and the structure of many parts
of the mechanism has many similarities with lock-stitch embroidery
machines. The main parts of single-head universal automatic
embroidery machine are column, case, frame holder and head. The
case is fixed on column and consists of pole and cantilevered arm.
Inside the upper part of column is installed the stitch mechanism.
Inside the case is installed the main shaft mechanism. On the head
is disposed a set of needle mechanisms with thread takeup and
thread guide mechanisms. The head is able to shift from case in the
horizontal position, engaging with the main shaft stirring up the
needed needle mechanism. This enables the machine to make the shift
of the thread color at one embroidery run. The frame holder
mechanism is able to shift the frame holder in a horizontal level
in four directions from the active needle. The shift is made in
step-type on coordinate according to given embroidery program. In
this way the machine can make loch-stitches on material of
different length and in any given order and direction, executing if
needed the shift of working needle with the thread of the definite
color. The industrial automatic embroidery machines can be both
single-headed and with few heads and with corresponding number of
necessary working mechanisms. The last are called many headed or
multihead automatic embroidery machines. Under normal conditions of
embroidery all the heads and frame holders mechanisms works
synchronously.
The basic indexes of industrial embroidery machines
1. Speed of embroidery. It is expressed through quantity of
stitches per minute. The embroidery speed can be adjusted both
manually and automatically while embroidering. The optimal
embroidery speed of modern machines oscillates between 700-900
stitches per minute. Maximum speed reaches 1200-1400 stitches per
minute.
2. Number of working heads. In modern multihead machines the
head numbers come to 2-4 heads.
3. The size of working area or the maximum size of used frame.
This index is concerned with possible size of performed embroidery.
It is expressed through correlation of length and width of the
working area in millimeters and is regulated for flat and
cylindrical frame (used for caps, sleeves, etc). There are spread
the correlations 800×600, 500×400 and other-for flat frame; 360×75,
400×350 and other for cylindrical frame.
4. Needle quantity. It is equal to the number of needles on one
head. It is defined by maximal possible number of thread colors
used at one run of embroidery. The possible needle number in modern
machines is from 1 to 12. The most spread are the machines with 9
needles. Other important indexes are the noise and vibration level,
the compatibility of machine with different standard embroidery
programs, the presence of accessories, error of linear measurements
of embroidery elements.
The accessories can be presented through different additional
hinged device for automatic let-off of decorative cord or ribbon,
broadened control terminal, systems of laser and video navigation
of working area, additional laser trimers (device for thread
cutting) and other.
The concomitant equipment can be presented through devices of
embroidery evaporation, various press equipment for adhesive
chevron and braid production, special cloth-cutting machine in the
form of laser cutter-machines, that can automatically cut of or
drift on markings on cloth, which is widely used at combined with
embroidery applique’works production.